Shoe and method of making the same.



W. H. BAYNARD.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED NOV.13. 1915. RENEWED AUG. 27. I917.

1 ,274,665 Patented Aug. 6, 1918.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l.

Gl/ \z\ W-v H. BAYNARD.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. I3. 1915. RENEWED AUG. 27. I917.

1,274,665. Patented Aug. 6, 1918.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WILLIAM H. BAYNARD, OI BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 6, 1918.

Application filed November 18, 1915, Serial No. 61,254. Renewed August27, 1917. Serial No. 188,490.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM H. BAYNARD, a citizen of the United States,residing at Braintree, in the county of Norfolk and Sta-teofMassachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in.Shoes and Methods of Making the Same, of which the following is aspecification.

The object of this invention is to provide an improved shoe and a newmethod of mak ing thesame. Ordinarily in actual practice in themanufacture of both McKay and Goodyear welt shoes, an innersole is firstpositioned upon the last, the vamp is placed on the last, and the vampis. then stretched about the last and secured to the innersole. Theinnersole must be preferably prepared for use, and its edge defines thecontour of the lower edge of the vamp, and, where it is made of leatheror leather and canvas, it materially increases the stiffness of theshoe.

The present invention has for its object to provide a shoe in whichthere is no innersole, as a result of which I obviate the crease whichis ordinarily formed between the feather edge of the innersole and theupper, and which frequently forms a source of much discomfort to thewearer, and also materially reduce the expenses in production, not onlyin the cost-0f the materials used in the shoe but also in the machinesand labor necessary for its manufacture.

In producing the shoe, I employ an attaching member, which, for lack ofa better term, I call the sole lining, and which is initially shapedgenerally to follow the con tour of the lower edge of the finished shoeexcept at the extremities thereof. The lower edge of the vamp isattached to the margin of the sole lining, after which a last isinserted in the thus partially formed shoe. The edge of the vampextendsa short distance across the sole of the last, and, when the outersole is temporarily secured in place, the lastis withdrawn andfastenings are passed through the sole and the edge of the vamp along aline outside of the edge of the sole lining, as a result of which thevamp is secured directly to the-sole, and the contour of the lower partof the vamp is defined by the line of fastenings.

There is an advantage incident to the employment of a flexible solelining, since it facilitates the attachment thereof to the edge of thevamp. Consequently I preferably employ a textile material for thepurpose, and usually one which will not stretch materially. The solelining is cut to size and shape, since it determines the size of theshoe, and then, being creased or bent on alongitudinal line to make theoperation easier, is stitched by a straight-needle sewing machine to theupper. Since the vamp is usually provided with a vamp lining, I preferto stitch the lower edges of the same together, before which, however, Iinsert between them a counter stiffener and a toe stifiener, so that theline of stitches secures said stifl'eners in place. The counterstiffener and toe stiffener are preferably made of a fibrous materialimpregnated with a stiffening compound which may be rendered soft andflexible, and which will set or harden after being molded to fit the endof the last.

Hence, having assembled the vamp and its lining and the end stifl'eners,and having attached the vamp to the sole lining, a last is inserted inthe partially formed shoe, after which the end stifi'eners are softened,and,,by means of a suitable end-wiping or end-lasting machine, the edgesat the ends of the shoe are wiped in over the sole lining and are helduntil the stiffening material hardens and sets. This last operationmolds the counter stiffener and toe box to the corresponding ends of thelast. The outer sole is then temporarily secured in place, preferably bycementing it to the bottom of the partially completed shoe and pressingit thereagainst by a sole-laying machine, after which the last iswithdrawn and said sole is secured permanently by fastenings passedthrough the edge of the vamp and its lining, and through the sole.Ordinarily, for the final stitching operation, I employ a McKay sewingmachine, and the line of stitches formed thereby, which parallel but.

are located outside the seam uniting the sole lining and the vamp,define the conformation of the upper at its junction with the outersole.

On the accompanying drawings,--

Figure 1 represents a spring-heel shoe made according to my method andembodyin my invention.

Fig. 2 represents a bottom View of the same.

Fig. 3 represents a section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 represents a transverse section on the line 4- 1 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 represents a section on the line 55 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 shows the partially formed shoe before the sole is attached.thereto. In this figure, the heel end-has been slit and wlped over.

Fig. 7 shows a blank for the vamp and its lining.

Fig. 8 illustrates the next step 1n the formation of the shoe in whichthe counter and the toe box are inserted in place and secured to thevamp.

Fig. 9 illustrates the next step in which the sole lining it stitched tothe vamp.

Fig. 10 represents a section on the line 10l0 of Fig. 8.

Fig. 11 represents a section on the line 11-11 of Fig. 8.

Figs. 12 and 13 represent respectively sections on the lines 12l2 and13-13 of Fig. 9.

Fig. 14 represents the sole lining blank.

Fig. 15 illustrates the sole with the shank stiffener secured thereto.

Fig. 16 represents a section on the line 16-16 of Fig. 15.

Fig. 17 shows how the sole lining is stitched to the upper.

In carrying out my method of manufacturing shoes, I first, by means ofsuitable patterns, form the vamp and its lining as shown in Fig. 7, thevamp being indicated at 20 and the lining at 21. By means of a row ofstitches 22, the upper edge of the lining 21 is stitched to the vamp,this occurring at the same time that the remainder of the upper 23 isattached to the vamp if desired. The rear or heel ends of the vamp andthe lining therefor are next united in the usual way. Then in the toeend, between the lining and the vamp, there is inserted a toe box blankas indicated at 24, and there is at the same time inserted at the heelend a partially molded counter 25. I preferably emloy a counter of suchdimensions that its ower edges may be folded over the last andpractically meet, as shown in Fig. 6, to form a heel seat, although insome instances this is not essential. After these parts have been thusassembled, the lower edges of the vamp and the lining of the toe box arepreferably connected by a line of stitches 26 which parallel or closelyfollow the edge of the vamp. These stitches pass through the counter atsome distance from the lower edge thereof and through the toe box andhold them in place. The sole lining, which is indicated at 27 in Fig.'14:. and which has been cut to the proper shape and size, is thenunited to the edge of the upper and to the box and the counter. For thispurpose, I preferably employ a sewing machine which forms an over-edgestitch. The limpness and flexibility of the sole lining permits this tobe easily accomplished, since it can be folded along its median line sothat it will lie fiat against the vamp and the vamp lining, as shown inFig. 17. Preferably the sole lining is truncated at its ends so that itis not equal in length to the finished shoe. I should not regard it as adeparture from my invention if some material other than the limpflexible material herein described were used in lieu thereof. The solelining determines the size of the shoe, and it should be as wide aspossible in order to reduce the area of the expensive vamp material andyet allow for the inturned edge of the vamp to which the sole isdirectlysecured.

. In Fig. 8, I have illustrated the vamp and the parts Whichare securedthereto prior to the attachment of the sole lining, and, in Fig. 9, Ihave shown the shoe with the sole lining secured thereto. It will benoticed that the edge of the sole lining protrudes beyond the edge ofthe vamp and that it lies under the flaps or edges of the counter. Whenthe shoe has been brought to this state of completion, a last of theproper size and shape is then inserted into it so as to give it theproper shape and to stretch it to the desired extent.

In Fig. 6, the bottom of the shoe is shown with the last thereintoinserted, and it will be seen that the edges of the vamp and vamp liningare inturned over the bottom or sole of the last. Then, by any suitableinstrumentality, the toe and heel ends of thevam are slit. The ends ofthe shoe are su ciently heated by any suitable means or otherwisetreated to soften the stiffening compound in the box and the counter,and then, by means of a suitable machine such as a bed-laster, the endsof the shoe are wiped over and are held in place until the stiffeningcompound sets and hardens. More or less of the adhesive stiffeningcompound oozes from the fibrous base of the box or the counter andcements the wipedover portions of the vamp and the lining therefortogether and holds them tightly down on the sole of the last. In Fig. 6,the heel end of the partially completed shoe has been wiped over and thetoe end is ready to be so wiped. The sole, as indicated at is cemented ashank stiffener 29, as indi- 28, is cut into the pro r shape and form,and upon its upper sur ace, if desired, there cated in thelast-mentioned figure.

In the drawings, I have shown, as exemplifying my process, a spring-heelshoe, and hence in Fig. 16 it will be noticed that with the sole thereis formed the springheel 30, but the invention may be practised inconnection with or embodied in other forms of shoes. The upper surfaceof the sole or the bottom of the shoe or both are then coated withcement, the sole is placed upon the bottom of the shoe and is firmlypressed thereagainst by any suitable form of machine having a die of theproper shape until the sole is, molded to proper form and becomes firmlyadherent to the bottom of the shoe. Then, by means of a suitablemachine, such as a McKay stitching machine, the sole is united to theupper by a line of stitches 31 which pass through the edge of the vampand the vamp lining, and which follow the edge of the sole of the lastto give the desired conformation to the upper. The shoe then may besubjected to the usual operations for burnishing the sole and heel, andthe usual treeing or ironing operations.

From the foregoing description, it will be seen that the shoe thusprovided may be made with a minimum expense and requires very littlemachinery for its construction. The shoe is extremely flexible andcomfortable to wear, conforming easily to the shape of the foot andbending readily when the wearer is Walking. It is quite apparent that itmay be provided with a welt stitched to the outsole in the usual manner.If any filling is desired, the filler may be placed on the bottom of theshoe previous to the attachment of the sole. Where a welt is employed,it may be secured to the upper by the same operation of stitching whichunites the vamp and the sole lining together.

A shoe, such as herein described, may be inexpensively manufactured inlarge quantities without employing many of the complicated machines nowused in the manufacture of the McKay or Goodyear shoes. I eliminatemachines such as utilized in the usual welt-sewing operations, informing and channeling the innersoles, in pulling over and lasting theuppers and securing them to the innersoles, and in seam-trimming andwelt-beating the lasted and welted shoes. The machinery which I use issuch as can be easily obtained in the open market, and comprisesessentially a straight-needle sewing machine, an end-wi ing machine withheaters for the end sti eners, and a solelaying machine for pressing thecemented soles on the bottoms of the partially completed shoes. In theshoe itself, especially when the outer sole is stitched directly to theinturned upper, I have eliminated the innersole and the welt. The solelining in such case serves principally to secure the side edges of thevamp together until the shoe is shaped by the last and the sole isstitched thereto, and also to determine the ultimate size of the shoe.There need be no tacks or staples used in the construction of the shoe,and the disadvantages incident to their use are thereby avoided.

Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described away of making and using the same, although without attempting to setforth all of the forms in which it may be made or all of the modes ofits use, what- I claim is:

1. A shoe comprising a vamp having its edge inturned, a limp flexiblesole lining, means uniting the edge of the vamp to said sole lining, anouter sole, and separate means uniting said lining. v 2. A shoecomprising a vamp and a vamp lining united at their lower edges andextending inwardly, a flexible textile sole lining, a line of stitchesconnecting the edges of the sole lining and the vamp and vamp lining, asole, and means, separate from said line of stitches, uniting the soleto the vamp and the vamp lining.

3. A shoe comprising an upper consisting of a vamp, a vamp lining, linesof stitches uniting the upper and lower edges of said parts, asole'lining made of flexible material, and a seam connecting the edgesof the sole lining to the edges of the vamp and vamp lining, incombination with an outer sole, and stitches connecting said sole to theupper.

4. A shoe consisting of an upper having its lower edge inturned to lieabove the sole, a limp flexible sole lining, stitches uniting the edgeof the upper to the sole lining, a sole, and a line of stitches unitingthe sole to the upper and located outside the first mentioned stitchesand serving to define the shlape of the upper at its juncture with theso e.

5. A shoe having no innersole and comprising an upper consisting of avamp with its lower edge inturned, a flexible textile sole lining, and aseam connecting the edges of the vamp and the sole lining, incombination with an outer sole, and means, independent of the said seam,connecting said sole and the edges of the vamp.-

6. A shoe having no inner sole and comprising an upper consisting of avamp and a vamp lining, a counter between said vamp and vamp lininghaving its lower marginal portions substantially meeting near the medianline of the shoe, and a sole lining connected along its edges to thevamp, the vamp lining and the counter, and lying above the said sole tosaid vamp but not to.

lower marginal portions of the counter, in combination with a soleattached to the vamp and vamp linin 7 A shoe comprising the combinationwith a sole, of an upper consisting of a vamp having its lower edgesinturned across the sole, a flexible limp sole lining stitched to thelower inturned edge of the vamp by a line of stitches, a counter, a toebox, and a line of fastenings independent of said stitches for securingsaid sole to the inturned edges of the vamp and to said counter and saidtoe box.

8. A shoe comprising the combination with a sole and a counter stifienercemented to the upper face thereof; of an upper consisting of a vamp,and a flexible sole lining cemented to the upper face of the sole andstitched at its side edges to the vamp; and means securing said sole tosaid vamp.

9. A shoe comprising an outer sole, a vamp having its edge inturned uponthe outer sole, a shaped blank having its edge permanently stitched tothe inturned edge of the vampand lying upon the sole within the spacedefined by said inturned edge of the vamp, and a line of fasteningspassed through and uniting the said sole and the inturned edge of thevamp outside of the edge of the said blank.

10. A shoe comprising an outer sole, a vamp having a narrow edgeinturned upon the outer sole, a counter stiffener having its lower edgeinturned upon the sole, a shaped blank having its edge stitched to theedge of the vamp and to the counter stiffener, and a line of fasteningspassing through and uniting said sole and said inturned edges of thevamp and stiffener along a line outside the edge of said blank.

11. The herein described method of making a shoe which consists inattaching the lower edge of a vamp to a shaped sole lining whichdetermines the size of the finished shoe, then inserting a last into thepartially formed shoe so that the said attached edge of the vamp isinturned over the sole of the last, placing a sole upon the bottom ofsaid partially formed shoe, and securing the sole to the inturned edgeof the vamp by a line of fastenings located outside the edge of the solelining.

12. The herein described method of making a shoe which consists inattaching the lower edge of a vamp to a shaped sole lining whichdetermines the size of the finished shoe, then inserting a last into thepartially formed shoe so that the said attached edge of the vamp isinturned over the sole of the last, cementing a sole upon the bottom ofthe partially formed shoe, removing the last, and stitching the sole tothe inturned edge of the vamp along a line outside the attached edge ofthe sole lining.

13. The herein described method of making a shoe, which consists inpermanently attaching the lower edge of a vamp to a sole-shaped blank,inserting into the partially formed shoe a last having its sole areagreater than the area of said blank to cause the edge of the vamp to beinturned over the sole of said last and to shape such shoe, temporarilyattaching a sole upon the bottom of such shoe, removing the last, andpermanently attaching said sole to the inturned edge of the vamp by aline of fasteners passing therethrough and defining the contour of thevamp at its junction with the sole.

1 1. The herein described method of making a shoe, which consists institching the edges of a shaped sole lining of flexible material to thelower edge of a vamp, inserting a last into the thus partially formedshoe, to shape the same, and stitching a sole to the vamp by stitchesindependent of and outside the stitches by which the lining V isattached to the vamp.

15. The herein described method of making a shoe which consists institching together the edges of a vamp and a vamp lining, then stitchingsaid edges to the edge of a sole lining formed of a shaped blank of limpflexible material, inserting a last into the shoe thus partially formed,and then attaching a sole.

16. The herein described method of making a shoe which consists inassembling a vamp, a vamp lining, a counter and a toe box, said counterand toe box being formed of a material adapted to be rendered plastic,securing the edges of the vamp and vamp lining and the counter and boxto a shaped blank of suitable material, then inserting a last into thepartially formed shoe, softening the counter and toe box, molding saidcounter and toe box to fit the last and permitting them to set andharden, and then attaching a sole.

17. The herein described method of mak ing a shoe, which consists inattaching the edges of a shaped sole lining of flexible material to thelower edge of a vamp by stitches, inserting a last into the thuspartially formed shoe, to shape the same, cementing and pressing a soleupon the said sole lining, and then securing said sole directly to thelower edge of the vamp by a line of fastenings located outside thestitches first mentioned.

18. The herein described method of making a shoe which consists institching together the edges of a vamp and a vamp lining, then stitchingsaid edges to the edge of a sole lining formed of a shaped blank ofsuitable material, inserting a last into the shoe thus partially formed,cementing and pressing a sole upon said sole lining,

and then securing said sole by a line of fastenings.

19. The herein described method of making a shoe which consists inassembling a vamp, a vamp' lining, a counter and a toe box, said counterand toe box being formed of a material adapted to be rendered plastic,securing the edges of the vamp and vamp lining and the counter and boxto a shaped 10 blank of suitable material, then inserting a and pressinga sole upon the sole lining 15 and then stitching said sole to the vampand vamp lining.

In testimony whereof I have aflixed my signature.

WILLIAM H. BAYNARD.

